In this video, Pablo Sala (KI7OJL) shows how to build your own all-in-one receiver based on an RTL-SDR.
I recently became interested in exploring some of the signals found in the 2.4 GHz ISM band. The problem is that my favourite SDR (Software Defined Radio) an Airspy R2 only covers up to 1.7 GHz. Initially I looked at buying an SDR that could cover the 2.4 GHz band but found either that they were to expensive , had poor performance or weren’t supported by my SDR control software of choice. So I decided it would be best to build a downconverter to take the 2.4 GHz down by 1 GHz so it could be monitored by my Airspy.
In the past we’ve seen several other posts about RTL-SDRs being used to decode VOR signals, but Thierry’s implementation appears to be the easiest way to get a bearing straight away. You’ll get the most use out of the software if you install it on a portable device like a Raspberry Pi and take it out for a drive as you’ll be able to see the VOR angle changing then.
A detailed tutorial on how to set up a cheap QRP monitoring station using an RTL-SDR V3 and a Raspberry Pi 3 from rtl-sdr.com
This tutorial is inspired by dg0opk’s videos and blog post on monitoring QRP with single board computers. We’ll show you how to set up a super cheap QRP monitoring station using an RTL-SDR V3 and a Raspberry Pi 3. The total cost should be about US $56 ($21 for the RTL-SDR V3, and $35 for the Pi 3).
With this setup you’ll be able to continuously monitor multiple modes within the same band simultaneously (e.g. monitor 20 meter FT8, JT65+JT9 and WSPR all on one dongle at the same time). The method for creating multiple channels in Linux may also be useful for other applications. If you happen to have an upconverter or a better SDR to dedicate to monitoring such as an SDRplay or an Airspy HF+, then this can substitute for the RTL-SDR V3 as well.
More details at rtl-sdr.com.
Here’s a demonstration of the MFJ-1708SDR transmit/receive automatic relay switch from YouTube channel HamRadioConcepts .
Here is an interesting device, for use with your SDRplay or other SDR dongle for receive. You can share your current antenna with your 100 watt HF rig and an SDR for receive.
An amateur radio repeater used to be a complex assemblage of equipment that would easily fill a 19″ rack. There would be a receiver and a separate transmitter, usually repurposed from commercial units, a home-made logic unit with a microprocessor to keep an eye on everything, and a hefty set of filters to stop the transmitter output swamping the receiver. Then there would have been an array of power supply units to provide continued working during power outages, probably with an associated bank of lead-acid cells.
More recent repeaters have been commercial repeater units. The big radio manufacturers have spotted a market in amateur radio, and particularly as they have each pursued their own digital standards there has been something of an effort to provide repeater equipment to drive sales of digital transceivers.
But what if you fancy setting up a simple repeater and you have neither a shed full of old radios or a hotline to the sales department of a large Japanese manufacturer? If you are [Anton Janovsky, ZR6AIC], you make your own low-powered repeater using an RTL-SDR, a low-pass filter, and a Raspberry Pi.
[Anton]’s repeater is a clever assemblage through pipes of rtl_sdr doing the receiving, csdr demodulating, and [F5OEO]’s rpitx doing the transmitting. As far as we can see it doesn’t have a toneburst detector or CTCSS to control its transmission so it is on air full-time, however we suspect that may be a feature that will be implemented in due course.
With only a 10 mW output this repeater is more of a toy than a useful device, and we’d suggest any licensed amateur wanting to have a go should read the small print in their licence schedule before doing so. But it’s a neat usage of a Pi and an RTL stick, and with luck it’ll inspire others in the same vein.
Here’s a scratch-built 28.8MHz TCXO capable of +-1ppm stability from 0C-55C; best of all, it’s not only easy to build, but is designed entirely from readily available and inexpensive components. For improved temperature stability, the main oscillator can even be replaced with one of many commercially available TCXOs!
More details at Analog Zoo project page.